Stops 4 and 5 – Trekking Through Forests and Kraków by Day and Night The first time I took this 3-hour train ride from Warsaw to Kraków was when Poland joined the European Union and Polish farmers burned their fields. Today, the countryside is interspersed by flattened fields and heavy forests. It was an eerie reminder of time passed. I eagerly recall the coffee cart with its Polish pastries; yet this time the breakfast delicacies were replaced by packaged snacks. I settled for this insanely rich hot chocolate. Then out popped Kraków on the Wisła River, dating back to the 7th century, with its imposing Main Market Square and Wawel Castle. I spent concerted time over lunch in what was the Kraków Ghetto. It felt so odd to be dining so well in this location. Just look at this artfully composed salad of beets, goat cheese and local greens with vinegary dribble that I savoured at the Szara Kazimierz Restaurant. After a jazzy evening at the Kraków Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska), I strolled along Kanonicza Street, Krakow’s oldest to the amply awarded historic Copernicus Hotel and Restaurant, with its expansive, Gothic façade. Here I savored the chef’s recommendations, which began with this ethereal amuse bouche. Plenty to nourish my body and soul for the long journey to Prague. Stay with me for the best meal yet!