Four hours by bus from Agra to Delhi. First, via overcrowded roads alongside a sea of humankind and animals; then, by a state-of-the-art highway that leads to the city center. Contrasts abound from ultra-flashy metropolitan mayhem in New Delhi to tangles of carts, shops and stalls networked into the pulsating Chandni Chowk bazaar in Old Delhi. Bicycle rickshaws are a must. I visit the daunting and symbolic Mughal-era Red Fort, the sprawling Jama Masjid mosque, the India Gate (inspired by the Arc de Triomphe) and the Rajpath (a ceremonial boulevard similar to the Champs-Élysées). Then on to the Rajghat, the final resting place of Mahatma Gandhi and Jantar Mantar in Connaught Place, with fantastic astronomic instruments that predict times and movements of celestial bodies. Ah, the food … the colors, aromas, textures and options among Old Delhi street food are overwhelming. The smell of fresh fish, flavorsome kebabs and fried chicken is everywhere. My conscience steered me to avoid street food for fear of the evil GI bug. Four of my travel companions succumbed to the devil. I kept on the food prowl. I found parantha, stuffed with cauliflower, peas and potatoes, fried in pure ghee and served with mint and banana-tamarind chutney. There was chaat, a snack-like mixture of crispy fried bread, garbanzo beans, potato pieces and salty-tangy spices, garnished with sour chilies and saunth (dried ginger and tamarind sauce), fresh coriander leaves and yogurt. And the sweets! Kulfi, a flavored frozen dessert made of milk, was flavored with banana, mango, pistachios, pomegranate or rose. Hot jalebis, a popular sweet made by deep frying wheat batter into pretzel shapes, was soaked in sugar syrup and served warm or cold. Sadly, my historic, cultural, food and more food journey to India had to end with a blast—literally from the roof of my hotel. On to London to the British Museum to see where all the Indian artifacts I learned about now reside. And to some non-Indian food! Come fly with me.

February 09, 2016 | facebook

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