DAY FOUR – El Ferrol and Betanzos—tenacious and tantalizing! There’s a true grit mentality here. In the 17th century, El Ferrol was the most important arsenal in Europe and strategically positioned in one of the rias (inlets) of the Atlantic. Betanzos, a medieval Galician port, dates back to the 13th century. El Ferrol was also the birthplace of Francisco Franco, the Spanish general and dictator and Pablo Iglesias, the founder of the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party (PSOE). Imposing, both. But you, my FB friends, came here for the food and drink. Come select freshly snatched oysters, then bring your catch into a local restaurante and pair with the house vino. If you’re not a fan of mollusks or crustaceans, there’s wild boar or roast veal. Grab a handful of lush, ripe cherries for snacking or crystallized in desserts. And don’t miss the little Pementos de Padrón that range from bright green to sometimes red, customarily fried in oil and served as tapas. Padrón (godfather) is lovingly referred to as the occasional very hot pepper. Regrettably, this very hearty dining and late night eating fades as I head to northwestern France—specifically to Brest, for Brittany’s famous delicacies. See you there!