Day 8 – Mallorca: Bicycles, Pearls, OJ and More Olive Oil – Oh My! There’s plenty to enjoy in Mallorca (Majorca) besides pearls: grand architecture and splendid religious sites in Palma, including Palau de l’Almudaina, a once-royal Moorish palace and the huge Gothic Palma Cathedral—an monumental wonder. Plenty of cafes serve orange creations and pastries galore, like this freshly squeezed juice and ensaïmada, a pastry spiral sprinkled with powdered sugar. Wish I had my bicycle to attempt these mighty hills and to work off these treats! Looks like there are some fierce competitive road racers here. It’s easy to traverse the island. I head through its flat plains, surrounded by a tough mountain range to the northwest and a hilly ridge to the southeast to Sóller, a cozy gray-stone town that claims both a maritime and mountainous topography and a museum that boasts works by Picasso and Joan Miró. I’m headed to Ca’n Det, a finca (estate) dedicated to both growing oranges and olives and extracting olive oil since 1561. Traditional methods are still used that incorporate the original millstones, wicker mats and hydraulic press. To top my enchantment, there’s an abundance of tapas, including freshly baked bread, pizza-type flatbread, local sausages and cheeses, tomatoes, olives, family-made wine, homemade marmalade and almond cake. Now where is that bicycle? Oh, and those Majorica pearls are the frosting on the cake! Stay with me to Barcelona then LaRioja, south of the Cantabrian Mountains along the Ebro River.
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Day 7 – Scavenging Outside Valencia I skip the big city and head right to the fertile countryside just 6 kilometers northeast of Valencia. From the farmland I can see Valencia’s silhouetted skyline. Why here? I’m on my way to Restaurante Barraca to spend the day with the farmer/owner Toni Montoliu in his organic fields of vegetation and orange groves, harvest my lunch and prepare the local dish, paella. Come along. With Toni’s guidance, I collect the salad ingredients fresh from his fields and pick oranges from his groves. Toni oversees my paella preparation, cooked over an open fire sparked by orange wood that infuses into the paella. Time is not of the essence, so we maximize the time between collection and consumption over fava beans, almonds, beer and vino. I receive a lesson in how to pick out the critters from the produce so that they can be returned to the soil as natural predators for other organisms. I also learn the proper way of adding individual ingredients to the paella and stirring the grand cauldron filled with paella rice and tomato sauce so that the paella can slowly simmer away into its divine goodness. Here’s lunch: homemade strips of jamón and slices of local Queso Manchego, sautéed red bell peppers and olives, fresh bread made with both wheat and corn flours, fried potatoes with aioli, steamed artichokes with fresh lemons and olive oil, my (!) composed salad, the pièce de résistance (punto fuerte?) paella with chicken, rabbit and beans, oranges with walnuts and honey, baked squash with walnuts and a simple olive oil cake, all served with water and more beer and wine. This day was definitely the highpoint of my trip–thus far. What could possibly top this outing? Mallorca (Majorca) lies ahead!
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Day 7 – Scavenging Outside Valencia I skip the big city and head right to the fertile countryside just 6 kilometers northeast of Valencia. From the farmland I can see Valencia’s silhouetted skyline. Why here? I’m on my way to Restaurante Barraca to spend the day with the farmer/owner Toni Montoliu in his organic fields of vegetation and orange groves, harvest my lunch and prepare the local dish, paella. Come along. With Toni’s guidance, I collect the salad ingredients fresh from his fields and pick oranges from his groves. Toni oversees my paella preparation, cooked over an open fire sparked by orange wood that infuses into the paella. Time is not of the essence, so we maximize the time between collection and consumption over fava beans, almonds, beer and vino. I receive a lesson in how to pick out the critters from the produce so that they can be returned to the soil as natural predators for other organisms. I also learn the proper way of adding individual ingredients to the paella and stirring the grand cauldron filled with paella rice and tomato sauce so that the paella can slowly simmer away into its divine goodness. Here’s lunch: homemade strips of jamón and slices of local Queso Manchego, sautéed red bell peppers and olives, fresh bread made with both wheat and corn flours, fried potatoes with aioli, steamed artichokes with fresh lemons and olive oil, my (!) composed salad, the pièce de résistance (punto fuerte?) paella with chicken, rabbit and beans, oranges with walnuts and honey, baked squash with walnuts and a simple olive oil cake, all served with water and more beer and wine. This day was definitely the highpoint of my trip–thus far. What could possibly top this outing? Mallorca (Majorca) lies ahead!
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Days 5 & 6 – Almería and Cartegena My journey continues through Almería and Cartegena. Thanks to its lofty perch, over the Mediterranean and mild spring and fall climates, Almería wears the title “capital of the grape industry”. I walk off yesterday’s sensatory delights during my ascent to Alcazaba, a colossal fortress dating back to AD 995 with mixed heritage and gorgeous gardens. I’m tempted by the Moorish fountain, but “Agua no Potable.” It’s siesta time—the bustling shops are closed and most of the tiny restaurants are shuttered. Luckily I stop at Casa Puga, a tapas bar since 1870, where raciones (portions) are ample and fairly reasonable. There’s a myriad of sausages to try, flavored with garlic, paprika and other savory spices like these. Off to Cartegena, the city that houses Spain’s principal naval base and the ruins of Castillo de la Concepción, Cartegena’s castle which offers remarkable views of the city, harbor and Mediterranean. But I am first drawn to the indoor Mercado Santa Florentina for my daily catch of Mediterranean foods including this toothsome twosome, bacalao (dried and salted cod) and—what else–olives. Sated again, I’m heading out to Valencia! Follow me!
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Days 5 & 6 – Almería and Cartegena My journey continues through Almería and Cartegena. Thanks to its lofty perch over the Mediterranean and its mild spring and fall climates, Almería wears the title “capital of the grape industry”. I walk off yesterday’s sensatory delights during my ascent to Alcazaba, a colossal fortress dating back to AD 995 with mixed heritage and gorgeous gardens. I’m tempted by the Moorish fountain, but “Agua no Potable.” It’s siesta time—the bustling shops are closed and most of the tiny restaurants are shuttered. Luckily I stop at Casa Puga, a tapas bar since 1870, where raciones (portions) are ample and fairly reasonable. There’s a myriad of sausages flavored with garlic, paprika and other savory spices like these to try. Off to Cartegena, the city that houses Spain’s principal naval base and the ruins of Castillo de la Concepción, Cartegena’s castle which offers remarkable views of the city, harbor and Mediterranean. But I am first drawn to the indoor Mercado Santa Florentina for my daily catch of Mediterranean foods including this toothsome twosome, bacalao (dried and salted cod) and—what else–olives. Sated again, I’m heading out to Valencia! Follow me!
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Day 4 – A Sojourn in Málaga and Mijas Málaga, the capital of the Costa del Sol, is a port city chock-full with ancient streets, whitewashed villas, tropical foliage and subtropical climate. Who could ask for more? Except for Mijas, a quaint town and municipality in the Province of Málaga, where I hope to meet up with Janet Mendel, an American-born journalist and celebrated Spanish cooking author who has lived in Andalusia for more than 30 years. I savor Jordan almonds covered with a hard, colored, sugar-flavored coating and contemplate a goat ride or walk up the narrow streets. The walk wins: I stop by the Museo de Vino Málaga for wine and tapas tasting. Check out the Muscat of Alexandria, a white wine grape considered an “ancient vine”, believed to be one of the oldest genetically unmodified vines in existence, served with pate and brie-like tapas. I happily tour the charming Museo Picasso, replete with personal and family masterpieces and the majestic cathedral, La Manquita—called The One-Armed Lady since it lacks one tower! I lunch in its shadows on eggplant with honeyed sauce, anchovies on tomatoey toast, olives and sangria. This irresistible gelato shop provided a sweet/savory finish to my already bombarded senses. Feta gelato anyone? How can my next stops in Almería and Cartegena top this day? Stay tuned!
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Day 3 – Cádiz on the Waterfront Onward to Cádiz to see what attracted Hannibal, Julius Caesar and Columbus. Today Cádiz claims it right as the “oldest continuously inhabited city in the Western World” surrounded by water on three sides. It’s intriguingly African in look with its bustling markets and street life. I first head to Tío Pepe, the bastion of the fortified wine Jerez–a fino-style dry sherry made from the palomino grape, noted for its bouquet, color and finish and a perfect match with jamón serrano (dry-cured ham). The old town boasts every species of Mediterranean fish and seafood thanks to its proximity in the Bay of Cádiz. Pictured is today’s fresh catch (likely whitebait or sardinas) with clams. Note the variety of canned fish for one’s anchovy or sardine fix. And, of course, there’s the customary jamón hanging from the rafters of most tapas bars. Most tapas are quite affordable and on the honor system. Proprietors count small plates or toothpicks to charge. Tomorrow Málaga and Mijas. Enliven your hunger or thirst yet?
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Day 3 – Back to Lisbon with the CIA I decided to take an in-depth look at the local neighborhoods and markets of Lisbon with a Culinary Institute of America trained chef and Portuguese food and wine expert. We started the day the way many local Lisbonites do with coffee and pastries. Like in other European countries, coffeehouses in Lisbon are more like institutions than breakfast establishments. Many still retain their turn-of-the-century charm. Others, like this one, are a bit more modernized. Both boast indoor and outdoor tables for lingering—after all, this IS the Mediterranean! Egg-filled recipes abound; in fact, if the hens every stop producing, the locales would be out of luck. Coffee is strong, even with milk. And oranges and almonds appear in all guises. My tour of the local mercado was resplendent with this local vegetation and gifts from the sea. Goat, lamb and pork were also bountiful. I sampled crusty and dense breads, goat and sheep’s milk cheeses and tiny, succulent oranges. Good thing I didn’t overeat, since lunch was at a nearby restaurant where the chef/owner prepared this delectable meal, paired with local wine served from small bowls! And there was still room for this very late dinner (Portuguese, like Spaniards eat when we sleep!) at Sr. Fado, a typical Lisbon restaurant/fado club where the owner/husband is also the sole waiter and the cook/wife is also the singer! Check out the pork with clams and the seafood caldeirada. See you tomorrow in Cádiz!
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More exciting news … I’ve just received notice of my appointment as Member to the Committee for Professional Development for the 2014-2015 program year of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics (AND) Board of Directors (BOD) and House of Delegates (HOD). My role is a three-year joint appointment through 2017. I’m thrilled to have this opportunity to support and empower AND members to be our nation’s food and nutrition leaders! Thanks to everyone responsible for my appointment!
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