Day 8 – Mallorca: Bicycles, Pearls, OJ and More Olive Oil – Oh My! There’s plenty to enjoy in Mallorca (Majorca) besides pearls: grand architecture and splendid religious sites in Palma, including Palau de l’Almudaina, a once-royal Moorish palace and the huge Gothic Palma Cathedral—an monumental wonder. Plenty of cafes serve orange creations and pastries galore, like this freshly squeezed juice and ensaïmada, a pastry spiral sprinkled with powdered sugar. Wish I had my bicycle to attempt these mighty hills and to work off these treats! Looks like there are some fierce competitive road racers here. It’s easy to traverse the island. I head through its flat plains, surrounded by a tough mountain range to the northwest and a hilly ridge to the southeast to Sóller, a cozy gray-stone town that claims both a maritime and mountainous topography and a museum that boasts works by Picasso and Joan Miró. I’m headed to Ca’n Det, a finca (estate) dedicated to both growing oranges and olives and extracting olive oil since 1561. Traditional methods are still used that incorporate the original millstones, wicker mats and hydraulic press. To top my enchantment, there’s an abundance of tapas, including freshly baked bread, pizza-type flatbread, local sausages and cheeses, tomatoes, olives, family-made wine, homemade marmalade and almond cake. Now where is that bicycle? Oh, and those Majorica pearls are the frosting on the cake! Stay with me to Barcelona then LaRioja, south of the Cantabrian Mountains along the Ebro River.

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Day 7 – Scavenging Outside Valencia I skip the big city and head right to the fertile countryside just 6 kilometers northeast of Valencia. From the farmland I can see Valencia’s silhouetted skyline. Why here? I’m on my way to Restaurante Barraca to spend the day with the farmer/owner Toni Montoliu in his organic fields of vegetation and orange groves, harvest my lunch and prepare the local dish, paella. Come along. With Toni’s guidance, I collect the salad ingredients fresh from his fields and pick oranges from his groves. Toni oversees my paella preparation, cooked over an open fire sparked by orange wood that infuses into the paella. Time is not of the essence, so we maximize the time between collection and consumption over fava beans, almonds, beer and vino. I receive a lesson in how to pick out the critters from the produce so that they can be returned to the soil as natural predators for other organisms. I also learn the proper way of adding individual ingredients to the paella and stirring the grand cauldron filled with paella rice and tomato sauce so that the paella can slowly simmer away into its divine goodness. Here’s lunch: homemade strips of jamón and slices of local Queso Manchego, sautéed red bell peppers and olives, fresh bread made with both wheat and corn flours, fried potatoes with aioli, steamed artichokes with fresh lemons and olive oil, my (!) composed salad, the pièce de résistance (punto fuerte?) paella with chicken, rabbit and beans, oranges with walnuts and honey, baked squash with walnuts and a simple olive oil cake, all served with water and more beer and wine. This day was definitely the highpoint of my trip–thus far. What could possibly top this outing? Mallorca (Majorca) lies ahead!

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Day 7 – Scavenging Outside Valencia I skip the big city and head right to the fertile countryside just 6 kilometers northeast of Valencia. From the farmland I can see Valencia’s silhouetted skyline. Why here? I’m on my way to Restaurante Barraca to spend the day with the farmer/owner Toni Montoliu in his organic fields of vegetation and orange groves, harvest my lunch and prepare the local dish, paella. Come along. With Toni’s guidance, I collect the salad ingredients fresh from his fields and pick oranges from his groves. Toni oversees my paella preparation, cooked over an open fire sparked by orange wood that infuses into the paella. Time is not of the essence, so we maximize the time between collection and consumption over fava beans, almonds, beer and vino. I receive a lesson in how to pick out the critters from the produce so that they can be returned to the soil as natural predators for other organisms. I also learn the proper way of adding individual ingredients to the paella and stirring the grand cauldron filled with paella rice and tomato sauce so that the paella can slowly simmer away into its divine goodness. Here’s lunch: homemade strips of jamón and slices of local Queso Manchego, sautéed red bell peppers and olives, fresh bread made with both wheat and corn flours, fried potatoes with aioli, steamed artichokes with fresh lemons and olive oil, my (!) composed salad, the pièce de résistance (punto fuerte?) paella with chicken, rabbit and beans, oranges with walnuts and honey, baked squash with walnuts and a simple olive oil cake, all served with water and more beer and wine. This day was definitely the highpoint of my trip–thus far. What could possibly top this outing? Mallorca (Majorca) lies ahead!

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Day 3 – Back to Lisbon with the CIA I decided to take an in-depth look at the local neighborhoods and markets of Lisbon with a Culinary Institute of America trained chef and Portuguese food and wine expert. We started the day the way many local Lisbonites do with coffee and pastries. Like in other European countries, coffeehouses in Lisbon are more like institutions than breakfast establishments. Many still retain their turn-of-the-century charm. Others, like this one, are a bit more modernized. Both boast indoor and outdoor tables for lingering—after all, this IS the Mediterranean! Egg-filled recipes abound; in fact, if the hens every stop producing, the locales would be out of luck. Coffee is strong, even with milk. And oranges and almonds appear in all guises. My tour of the local mercado was resplendent with this local vegetation and gifts from the sea. Goat, lamb and pork were also bountiful. I sampled crusty and dense breads, goat and sheep’s milk cheeses and tiny, succulent oranges. Good thing I didn’t overeat, since lunch was at a nearby restaurant where the chef/owner prepared this delectable meal, paired with local wine served from small bowls! And there was still room for this very late dinner (Portuguese, like Spaniards eat when we sleep!) at Sr. Fado, a typical Lisbon restaurant/fado club where the owner/husband is also the sole waiter and the cook/wife is also the singer! Check out the pork with clams and the seafood caldeirada. See you tomorrow in Cádiz!

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